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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. But, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family totally shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their small place achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.